Great Drift

Metal wheel from TOPCAD

2008-09-29T23:09:00.000-07:00

i'm searching for metal wheels for a while, and i'm ended found this cool metal wheel for my drift car check it out.

it's from TOPCAD brand, and it has lots of metal wheel we can choose from,and after i have tried to drift my car, it has a very sturdy streering feeling and more grip slide on the tarmac, i guess if you guys wanted to buy metal wheels for touring cars or drift car i suggest to check this brand for your cars, it doesnt cost much as the titanium wheel does, still have all the advantage

New upgrade for cyclone

2008-07-28T00:02:00.000-07:00

i was just installed some awesome hop ups,
i bougth it from 3 racing :
- super gear adapter (purple)
- 18 T pulley aluminium (purple)
- front knuckle aluminium (purple)

result: more speed on lower torque, longer run time on same battery, more control, make the cyclone more rigit.no more vibration from the normal plastic pulley, so the car more stabilize.
smoother turn and get more speed on the apex, it's very suitable for speed drifting.hoping i can post some video next time

CYCLONE TC review

2008-06-16T23:17:00.000-07:00

I just build a HPI Cyclone TC,and it's looks great,i use it for drifting racing, all carbon woven main chasis, shock tower, upper deck, and all aluminum support for riggit rc car, check it out.

using :
brushless drift motor 17T
spur 99T
pinion 42T

very fast in cornering, and straight track, make this kit a killer in drifting at tight and long drift.

Speed Passion brushless for drifting reviews

2008-05-26T04:13:00.001-07:00

Specification:
Brushless System
Forward/Brake/Reverse
Case Size: 41.0x41.8mm
Weight(Exclude Wire): 62g
Input Voltage: 4.8-8.4V
Rated Current: 120A / Phase (Brushless)
Motor Limit: 11.5 Turns(Brushless)
BEC: 5.0V
Sensored Brushless System
NiMH/LiPo Automatic Adaptation

price: approx 94 usd plus shipping

i was searching for a esc and motor drift use, so i went web searching and i found this brushless package called speed passion exige.a little confuse because i never saw and heard about this brand name, but i give it a try to buy one for my self, and i just received the package a few days ago, on first glance the esc looks nice and lite , the motor itself equal to 17T brushed looks very promising, another day i installed the brushless system on my cyclone drift and give it a go, i use 99T spur and 49T pinion(a little bit odd isnt it?)and wow, it spin really good, i got more power than my 17T brushed motor on my novak rooster esc,high respone throttle,20% more battery efficiency, instant braking in 0,0001 second (sudden braking) it has more torgue power on the apex so we can do more speed in the cornering act, i will post the video another time.

it is well spent for this brushless package, i recommend to buy this product for drifting brushless mode, i'm sure will be satisfying

the new drift machine Pro D

2008-04-25T21:07:00.001-07:00

The new drifting machine from hpi, Pro D high performance drift car
its has full carbon body, air tight diff, easy eject battery,and has shaft drive train for direct felling, it is gonna be a new drifting experience.
its sold out for 410 usd.

KIT ONLY no body included

More settings

2008-04-07T08:34:00.001-07:00

Lesson 3 ( SETTING YOUR CAR )

2008-04-07T08:22:00.000-07:00

Wheel offset guide (for 1/10 scale cars)
HPI offers a variety of wheel designs in different offsets. Using wider offset wheels (more than 0mm offset) effectively widens the width of the car (measured at outer edges of tyres, where they touch the ground). This allows you, in many cases, to fit a ‘wide’ or 200mm wide bodyshell on a ‘narrow’ or 190mm wide chassis. See below for a general guideline on how to match up bodyshells, car chassis and different offset wheels. Keep in mind that body widths will vary, a ‘narrow’ bodyshell can be from 185-195mm, for example!

For 190mm wide bodyshells on 190mm wide cars:
• Use 0mm offset wheels on the front and rear for a ‘normal’ street look.
• Try 3mm offset wheels to widen the stance of the car and bring the wheels closer to the edges of the body wheel openings.

For 200mm wide bodyshells on 190mm wide cars:
• Use 3mm offset wheels on the front and rear for a ‘normal’ street look.
• Try 6mm offset wheels to widen the stance of the car and bring the wheels closer to the edges body wheel openings.

For 190mm wide bodyshells on 200mm wide cars:
• Use 0mm offset wheels on the front and rear, anything with more offset may force the tyres to rub on the bodyshell (1mm offset wheels will probably be fine).

For 200mm wide bodyshells on 200mm wide cars:
• Use 0mm offset wheels on the front and rear for a ‘normal’ look.
• Try 3mm offset wheels to widen the stance of the car and bring the wheels closer to the edges of the body wheel openings. For bodyshells that are noted as having 210mm rear width, use 6mm offset wheels.

Lesson 2 ( How to drift )

2008-04-07T08:14:00.000-07:00

Step One: Practice initiating a drift.
For this step, you don't need to change your differential or suspension settings. Keep everything as you would keep it for 'grip' or normal racing. The only things you'll need to get started is a set of drift tyres - start with hard compound tyres like the #4406 T-Drift tyre or #34501 Stage-D 04S-26 tyre to begin with. The HPI treaded drift tyres are made from a different compound for advanced drift maneuvers.

Start by approaching the corner at a quick speed. The more you accelerate, the more stable the car will be. As you get to the apex, accelerate faster than normal to break rear traction. The rear end should start sliding, giving you a 'tailslide'. When this happens, countersteer back to neutral and accelerate away. You've just completed the first step in drifting! When you're able to do this consistently, you can move on to trying to drift completely around a corner. Keep practicing this first step to perform the tail slide smoothly.

Step Two: Drifting around a corner.
Again, keep the same diff and tyre settings as for grip racing.

Drive into the same corner you were practicing with in step one, but instead of braking and then turning like you would in grip racing, turn the steer and brake hard at the same time to break the back end loose. This starts your 'drift swing'. Counter-steer to keep the nose of the car pointed towards the apex until the car gets past the apex, then steer back to neutral as you exit the turn, and accelerate away.

To link up a sequence of curves use the drift swing technique to get you smoothly through the curves. Between the turns, release the throttle for a moment to increase how much the counter-steer affects the car, then accelerate again as the car starts turning into the following curve.

Remember that the more of an angle you can keep through the corner and the more graceful the car is, the more points you'll earn from any judges, whether you're at an organized competition or just thrashing about with your mates.

Step Three: High performance drifting.
As you make the move into high performance drifting, you'll need to start adjusting your car settings. If you want to maximize the amount of counter-steer you use, keep the front diff as standard but use a tighter rear diff setting, either by tightening the diff screw or using heavier grease. To focus more on extreme drift angle, use a front one-way diff while tightening the rear diff as described for more counter-steer action. For both types of drifting, use a much softer suspension setting than for the earlier steps, by using a spring that is a couple of steps softer than standard and slightly thinner shock oil. You can adjust the suspension links but keep it simple for now and just adjust the shocks by themselves.

To create a big drift angle, brake before entering the corner and control the throttle to pass the apex with a large angle. For an EP (electric-powered) car, use a front one-way for rear braking to quickly change the direction and accelerate. Try to keep the car from spinning. Be gentle on the throttle when using a front differential or exiting the corner.

Step Four: Driving with other cars - Twin Drift!
The ultimate challenge for drift masters is driving with other cars in what is called the 'twin drift'. Both cars are sliding through the corner, just inches from one another, as the drivers delicately balance brake and throttle inputs to either pull away from the car behind, or catch up to the car ahead. It's even tougher when the drivers have wildly different drifting styles - it takes a lot of nerve and a lot of skill to do it right!

Lesson 1 ( DRIFTING )

2008-04-07T08:06:00.000-07:00

What is drifting?

Full-size drifting competitions consist of drivers controlling their car around a racing circuit to gain style points from judges and spectators. The more style, drift angle, tyre smoke and noise you can maintain around a fixed course, the more points you get! Drifting isn’t about crossing the finish line first, it’s about showing off to the crowd and getting more cheers than the other guy!

To get a car to physically drift around a corner, the driver puts power to the rear tyres to break traction and swing around the rear end of the car, whilst still accelerating the car forward through the turn. Using the throttle, precise steering and subtle braking, the driver maintains the drift around the turn and guides the car to the next turn.

Of course, drifting isn’t just about getting around the track – the look, the style and upgrading the drift car is half the fun of being involved with the drifting lifestyle! Fabulous graphics, deep-dish wheels, loads of chrome, fat exhausts and wild, unique styling are all part of the show.

For some car fans, the driving and skill is what's important to them, and showing off extreme angles while burning up a set of tyres around the corners is what gets a big grin on their face. For others, the clean and polish of a finely crafted machine is how they get their kicks, and checking out the detail and extent of customization on their own car or someone else's is what really gets them going! The beauty of the drifting and import racing scene is that it can easily accomodate both extremes of car nut: the driver or the detail geek!

Nitro rs4 RTR3 Drift overview

2008-03-03T02:27:00.000-08:00

Power comes from the potent HPI Nitro Star G3.0 nitro engine (.18 Cu. In.), with more than 2 horsepower and 32,000 RPM on tap for tyre-smoking drift action! A large diameter aluminium tube manifold and an all-new rear exhaust muffler system routes the engine smoke out the back of the car for scale realism and clean operation. The G3.0 is also equipped with a pullstarter for quick and easy starting.

A sturdy pull starter system, oiled air filter, 2-needle carburettor, aluminium flywheel, strong steel clutchbell and aluminium tube manifold complete the power delivery package, making the G3.0 easy to start, run and maintain!

The RTR Nitro RS4 3 Drift has many of the features found on our popular RTR Nitro RS4 3 Evo+, making it a great choice for car parking drifters. The tough 4WD shaft drive system keeps the drivetrain running smoothly even on surfaces that aren't completely free of rocks. The enclosed receiver & battery box keeps the electronics protected from the elements, and with its easy removal from the chassis clean-up is a snap. A stiff purple anodized aluminium 2.5mm chassis prevents flex for consistent handling and extra durability.

The all-new, specially designed drift chassis positions the engine as far forward in the chassis as possible, giving the RTR Nitro RS4 3 Drift unbeatably realistic handling. Combine this with a durable 4WD shaft drivetrain, your car will quick acceleration and manoeuvrability and poise as you drift through the corners!

With all the attention to detail in the RTR Nitro RS4 3 Drift package, the full effect is taken in when the car is fired up and is screaming around the turns! The brightly painted bodyshell gleams with decals from authentic drift sponsors and wild custom graphics. A sweet 3-D style racing wing completes the bodyshell and gives the car massive rear downforce. Treaded hard compound HPI Type A Drift Radials are wrapped around replica chrome Volk TE37 wheels for a bright and flashy finish to the outer look of the car.
The loud and powerful Nitro Star G3.0 engine that will turn heads everywhere you go! Sounding like a real car engine and even pumping exhaust from the rear of the bodyshell just like a full-size drift machine, the RTR Nitro RS4 3 Drift will impress anyone who watches it in action!
Finishing everything off is the realistic handling and performance with its forward-mounted engine and 4WD grip!

for more detail please visit:http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.php?lang=en&partNo=10073&hid=3

HPI Nitro drifting RC

2008-02-29T00:27:00.000-08:00

New from HPI drifting product,first time in RC history for drifting world came HPI with all new RC for nitro drifting.with one speed acceleration and renew back muffler,its been perfected for centered weight RC car. made this drifting car perfect for prfessional driver.
cost:HKD 2800
just 2 model come out from the box and it's RTR!!!!!

Drift Meister motor

2008-02-25T01:20:00.000-08:00

Drifting with new drifting motor from HPI, great power and torque
1101 DRIFT MEISTER 11T MOTOR (RED)
1102 DRIFT MEISTER 13T MOTOR (BLACK)
1103 DRIFT MEISTER 15T MOTOR (PURPLE)
1104 DRIFT MEISTER 17T MOTOR (BLUE)
1105 DRIFT MEISTER 19T MOTOR (GREEN)

Helios C2 limited edition

2008-02-25T00:58:00.000-08:00

I just bought a Helios KO PROPO C2 limited edition remote, its lighter than the other remote i've tried, and the handling is very convinient.it's using 40 mhz channel, its very odd becuase they put out a 27 mhz for the remote in america.
the price is very expensive for a remote , but i worth to buy if you're a pro driver, it gives you more handling than other expensive (460 usd ) remote i've tried before

it allows for advance HSR, using light weight aluminum screws and handle.
for more detail:http://www.kopropo.com/EX-10_helios.htm

wtc race way for 15 dec 2007 drifting exebhition

2007-12-08T06:26:00.000-08:00

this the wtc track for upcoming drifting event,

location: WTC Mangga Dua, 5 th floor
time : 15 december 2007
event : body contest, solo drift, touge drift
tickets :Rp 200,000

there's some unnecessary turn before the finish line , and medium turn afterwards, 2 360 degree turn, and 1 blind turn.

toyota Vitz RS

2007-12-04T01:30:00.000-08:00

The new Genetic RC Kit from ABC hobby, Toyota Vitz RS, very good detail and very rare item is on sale this november.
BODY DATA Length : 337mm Width : 163mm WheelBase : 208mm
with : Decal . Masking Film . Light Bucket
price: 17,400 JPY
very tempting price isnt it?
well. you guys can take a look at: www.abchobby.com

just don't drool over your keyboard

The new HPI X30RE motor

2007-12-02T19:32:00.000-08:00

Just installed a new drift motor from HPI , X30RE motor 30T, good high torque, more handling, but poor on high speed, but it will have good advantage on small track, cost=30usd, good price too

the jakarta drifters

2007-12-02T19:27:00.001-08:00

this is some of my drifters friend from jakarta, we used to practice at senayan, hoping gonna be a pro drifters some day

Stage D Motor

2007-12-02T19:23:00.000-08:00

stage d motor for great drifting,1-13T motor very good handling for both newbie and pro driver it cost for 69 usd.

Zero one body ABCHobby Before And After

2007-12-02T18:58:00.001-08:00

before and after work over the body, 80 percent complete, the lamp not installed yet,the zero one body is great,easy to work with and has great detail.after a 3 hours work, it's look cool with the black rims from HPI

other accesories

2007-11-29T00:51:00.000-08:00

the product is made with precision

ABC accesories

2007-11-29T00:34:00.002-08:00

i'm buying some upgrades for the Zero One body as follow:

lamp kit

its includes the module that attach to the esc ( no optional, all built in ) the module is wrap in black rubber coat with white sticker on it

and we got a bonus for universal light bucket

i also bought good detail product from them

wiper, mirror and exhaust.

Hands on!!!!!!

2007-11-29T00:22:00.000-08:00

Just Arrive, the long waiting for 01 SuperBody from ABC hooby,i manage to import one of the newest body from ABC just look at the preview:

the body cost me for 3900 JPY

link:www.abchobby.com for more view

more superbody from ABC hobby

2007-11-19T23:24:00.000-08:00

this is an old school car model from abchobby, it sold for JPY 3900 only for the body

New superbody from ABChobby

2007-11-19T23:12:00.000-08:00

the body is on sale on november

The servo

2007-10-23T19:39:00.000-07:00

Servo introduction

A Servo is a small device that has an output shaft. This shaft can be positioned to specific angular positions by sending the servo a coded signal. As long as the coded signal exists on the input line, the servo will maintain the angular position of the shaft. As the coded signal changes, the angular position of the shaft changes. In practice, servos are used in radio controlled airplanes to position control surfaces like the elevators and rudders. They are also used in radio controlled cars, puppets, and of course, robots.

So, how does a servo work? The servo motor has some control circuits and a potentiometer (a variable resistor, aka pot) that is connected to the output shaft. In the picture above, the pot can be seen on the right side of the circuit board. This pot allows the control circuitry to monitor the current angle of the servo motor. If the shaft is at the correct angle, then the motor shuts off. If the circuit finds that the angle is not correct, it will turn the motor the correct direction until the angle is correct. The output shaft of the servo is capable of travelling somewhere around 180 degrees. Usually, its somewhere in the 210 degree range, but it varies by manufacturer. A normal servo is used to control an angular motion of between 0 and 180 degrees. A normal servo is mechanically not capable of turning any farther due to a mechanical stop built on to the main output gear.

The amount of power applied to the motor is proportional to the distance it needs to travel. So, if the shaft needs to turn a large distance, the motor will run at full speed. If it needs to turn only a small amount, the motor will run at a slower speed. This is called proportional control.

How do you communicate the angle at which the servo should turn? The control wire is used to communicate the angle. The angle is determined by the duration of a pulse that is applied to the control wire. This is called Pulse Coded Modulation. The servo expects to see a pulse every 20 milliseconds (.02 seconds). The length of the pulse will determine how far the motor turns. A 1.5 millisecond pulse, for example, will make the motor turn to the 90 degree position (often called the neutral position). If the pulse is shorter than 1.5 ms, then the motor will turn the shaft to closer to 0 degress. If the pulse is longer than 1.5ms, the shaft turns closer to 180 degress.

The Remote

2007-10-23T18:56:00.000-07:00

Introduction for the remote:

A radio-controlled model (or RC model) is a model that is steerable with the use of radio control. All types of vehicles imaginable have had RC systems installed in them, including cars, boats, planes, and even helicopters and scale railway locomotives.

History

Radio control has been around since the late 1800s with Nikola Tesla having demonstrated a remote control boat in 1893. The World War II era saw increased development in radio control technology. The Luftwaffe used controllable winged bombs for targeting Allied ships. During the 1950s pioneering work was done by enthusiastic amateurs to create valve based control units. Originally simple 'on-off' systems these evolved to use complex systems of relays to control speed and direction. The information was encoded by varying the signals mark/space ratio (pulse proportional). Rapidly commercial versions of these systems became available. The tuned reed system brought new sophistication, using metal reed switches to resonate with the transmitted signal and operate one of a number of different relays. In the 1960s the availability of transistor based equipment led to the rapid development of fully proportional servo-based systems, again driven largely by amateurs but resulting in commercial products. In the 1980s, integrated circuits made the electronics cheap, small and light enough for multi-channel fully proportional control to become widely available.

In the 1990s miniaturised equipment became widely available, allowing radio control of the smallest models, and by the 2000s radio control was commonplace even for the control of inexpensive toys. At the same time the ingenuity of modellers has been sustained and the achievements of amateur modelers using the latest technology has extended to such subjects as gas-turbine powered aircraft, aerobatic helicopters and submarines, to name but a few examples.

Before the days of radio control many models would use simple burning fuses or clockwork mechanisms to control flight or sailing times. Sometimes clockwork controllers would also control and vary direction or behaviour. Other methods included tethering to a central point (popular for cars and hydroplanes), round the pole control for electric model aircraft and control line (USA: u-control for internal combustion powered aircraft.

Radio-controlled cars use a common set of components for their control and operation. All cars require a transmitter, which has the joysticks for control, or in pistol grip form, a trigger for throttle and a wheel for turning, and a receiver which sits inside the car. The receiver changes the radio signal broadcast from the transmitter into suitable electrical control signals for the other components of the control system. Most radio systems utilize amplitude modulation for the radio signal and encode the control positions with pulse width modulation. Upgraded radio systems are available that use the more robust frequency modulation and pulse code modulation. The radio is wired up to either electronic speed controls or servomechanisms (shortened to "servo" in common usage) which perform actions such as throttle control, braking, steering, and on some cars, engaging either forward or reverse gears. Electronic speed controls and servos are commanded by the receiver through pulse width modulation; pulse duration sets either the amount of current that an electronic speed control allows to flow into the electric motor or sets the angle of the servo. On the models the servo is attached to at least the steering mechanism; rotation of the servo is mechanically changed into a force which steers the wheels on the model, generally through adjustable turnbuckle linkages. Servo savers are integrated into all steering linkages and some nitro throttle linkages. A servo saver is a flexible link between the servo and its linkage that protects the servo's internal gears from damage during impacts or stress.

wikipedia

ESC ( Electronic Speed Control)

2007-10-23T09:06:00.000-07:00

introduction about our ESC:

An electronic speed control or ESC is a device mounted onboard an electrically powered radio control model in order to vary its drive motor's speed, its direction and even to act as a dynamic brake in certain controllers.

An ESC can be a stand-alone unit which plugs into the receiver's throttle control channel or incorporated into the receiver itself, as is the case in most toy-grade R/C vehicles. Some R/C manufacturers that install proprietary hobby-grade electronics in their entry-level vehicles, vessels or aircraft use onboard electronics that combine the two on a single circuit board.

Regardless of the type used, an ESC interprets control information not as mechanical motion as would be the case of a servo, but rather in a way that varies the switching rate of a network of field effect transistors, or "FET's." The rapid switching of the transistors is what causes the motor itself to emit its characteristic high-pitched whine, especially noticeable at lower speeds. It also allows much smoother and more precise variation of motor speed in a far more efficient manner than the mechanical type with a resistive coil and moving arm once in common use.

Most modern ESCs incorporate a battery eliminator circuit (or BEC) to regulate voltage for the receiver, removing the need for extra batteries. ESCs are normally rated according to maximum current, for example, 25 amperes or 25A. Generally the higher the rating, the larger and heavier the ESC tends to be which is a factor when calculating mass and balance in airplanes. Many modern ESCs support nickel metal hydride and lithium ion polymer batteries with a range of input and cut-off voltages. The type of battery and number of cells connected is an important consideration when choosing a BEC, whether built into the controller or as a stand-alone unit.

ESCs for cars

ESCs designed for sport use in cars generally have reversing capability; newer sport controls can have the reversing ability overridden so that it can be used in a race. Controls designed specifically for racing and even some sport controls have the added advantage of dynamic braking capability. Simply put, the ESC forces the motor to act as a generator by placing an electrical load across the armature. This in turn makes the armature harder to turn, thus slowing or stopping the model. Some controllers add the benefit of regenerative braking. This puts the voltage being generated by the motor back to work recharging the vehicle's drive batteries. On full-sized vehicles, regenerative braking is used in electric and hybrid golf cars and hybrid automobiles while dynamic braking is used in diesel-electric locomotives to help slow trains on long downgrades.

Brushless ESCs

Brushless motors have become very popular with radio controlled airplane hobbyists because of their speed, power, longevity in comparison to traditional motors and light weight. However, brushless DC motor controllers are much more complicated than brushed motor controllers. They have to convert the DC from the battery into phased AC (usually three phase) that the brushless motor can use. The correct phase varies with the motor rotation, which is where the complication lies. Usually, back EMF from the motor is used to detect this rotation, but variations exist that use magnetic or optical detectors. Computer-programmable speed controls generally have user-specified options which allows setting low voltage cut-off limits, timing, acceleration, braking and direction of rotation. Reversing the motor's direction may also be accomplished by switching any two of the three leads from the ESC to the motor.

About BLDC(brushless dc) motor

2007-10-23T08:57:00.000-07:00

introduction about brushless motor

A brushless DC motor (BLDC) is an synchronous electric motor that from a modeling perspective looks exactly like a DC motor ( ie linear relationship between current and torque, voltage and rpm). It is a electronically controlled commutation system, instead of a mechanical commutation system (ie brushes )

In a conventional (brushed) DC motor, the brushes make mechanical contact with a set of electrical contacts on the rotor (called the commutator), forming an electrical circuit between the DC electrical source and the armature coil-windings. As the armature rotates on axis, the stationary brushes come into contact with different sections of the rotating commutator. The commutator and brush system form a set of electrical switches, each firing in sequence, such that electrical-power always flows through the armature coil closest to the stationary stator (permanent magnet).

In a BLDC motor, the electromagnets do not move; instead, the permanent magnets rotate and the armature remains static. This gets around the problem of how to transfer current to a moving armature. In order to do this, the brush-system/commutator assembly is replaced by an intelligent electronic controller. The controller performs the same power distribution found in a brushed DC motor, but using a solid-state circuit rather than a commutator/brush system.

BLDC motors offer several advantages over brushed DC motors, including higher efficiency and reliability, reduced noise, longer lifetime (no brush erosion), elimination of ionizing sparks from the commutator, and overall reduction of electromagnetic interference (EMI). The maximum power that can be applied to a BLDC motor is exceptionally high, limited almost exclusively by heat, which can damage the magnets. BLDC's main disadvantage is higher cost, which arises from two issues. First, BLDC motors require complex electronic speed controllers to run. Brushed DC motors can be regulated by a comparatively trivial variable resistor (potentiometer or rheostat), which is inefficient but also satisfactory for cost-sensitive applications. Second, many practical uses have not been well developed in the commercial sector. For example, in the RC hobby scene, even commercial brushless motors are often hand-wound while brushed motors use armature coils which can be inexpensively machine-wound.

BLDC motors are considered to be more efficient than brushed DC motors. This means that for the same input power, a BLDC motor will convert more electrical power into mechanical power than a brushed motor, mostly due to the absence of friction of brushes. The enhanced efficiency is greatest in the no-load and low-load region of the motor's performance curve. Under high mechanical loads, BLDC motors and high-quality brushed motors are comparable in efficiency.

How your RC motor work

2007-10-23T08:44:00.000-07:00

for all those curious about the motor works, i got good explaination on the wikipedia this is the summary:

When a current passes through the coil wound around a soft iron core, the side of the positive pole is acted upon by an upwards force, while the other side is acted upon by a downward force. According to Fleming's left hand rule, the forces cause a turning effect on the coil, making it rotate. To make the motor rotate in a constant direction, "direct current" commutators make the current reverse in direction every half a cycle thus causing the motor to rotate in the same direction.

The problem facing the motor shown above, is when the plane of the coil is parallel to the magnetic field; i.e. the torque is ZERO-when the rotor poles or displaced 90 degree from the stator poles. The motor would not be able to start in this position, but the coil can continue to rotate by inertia.

There is a secondary problem with this simple two-pole design; at the zero-torque position, both commutator brushes are touching across both commutator plates, resulting in a short-circuit that uselessly consumes power without producing any motion. In a low-current battery-powered demonstration this short-circuiting is generally not considered harmful, but if a two-pole motor were designed to do actual work with several hundred watts of power output, this shorting could result in severe commutator overheating, brush damage, and potential welding of the metallic brushes to the commutator.

Unlike the demonstration motor, above, DC motors are commonly designed with more than two poles, are able to start at any position, and do not have any position where current can flow without producing electromotive power.

If the shaft of a DC motor is turned by an external force, the motor will act like a generator and produce an Electromotive force (EMF). During normal operation, the spinning of the motor produces a voltage, known as the counter-EMF (CEMF) or back EMF, because it opposes the applied voltage on the motor. This is the same EMF that is produced when the motor is used as a generator (for example when an electrical load (resistance) is placed across the terminals of the motor and the motor shaft is driven with an external torque). Therefore, the voltage drop across a motor consists of the voltage drop, due to this CEMF, and the parasitic voltage drop resulting from the internal resistance of the armature's windings.As an unloaded DC motor spins, it generates a backwards-flowing electromotive force that resists the current being applied to the motor. The current flow through the motor drops as the rotational speed increases, and a free-spinning motor has very little current flow. It is only when a load is applied to the motor that slows the rotor that the current draw through the motor increases.Apparantly, if the motor had been helped on to run at 261.5 revolutions per minute, the current would have been reduced to zero. In the last result obtained, the current of 5.1 amperes was absorbed in driving the armature against its own friction at the speed of 195 revolutions per minute."
(1917) Hawkins Electrical Guide. Theo. Audel & Co., 359.

motor timing

2007-10-21T01:48:00.000-07:00

here is a good article for changing the motor timing for your drift car.

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-timing/g-motor-timing.asp

on the road

2007-10-21T01:30:00.000-07:00

my first car

2007-10-21T01:18:00.001-07:00

my first drift car, HPI E10 type, with double wishbone steering, shaft drive, bathtub chassy, with disk brake accesories.good handling for beginners, not much of trouble and not too expensive

trueno body

2007-10-21T01:04:00.000-07:00

this is my AE86 body , i made it only for 2 hour including painting and decals

RC drifting

2007-10-16T08:41:00.000-07:00

Well, i think it's safer when we drift with a Rc car than the real one, hahahahha, it's inexpensive and have a lot of fun.many top name RC factory already doing mass production for this kind of toys such as:yokomo, tamiya, HPI,and many more
drfit with Rc car is more alike with the real one you should have a lot of skill doing the drift.

how is it done?

2007-10-16T08:39:00.001-07:00

There are two ways to start a drift. The first is the clutching technique. When approaching a turn the driver will push in the clutch and shift his car into second gear. Then rev the engine up to around 4000-5000 rpm (it all depends all the model of the car being used) and then slightly turn away from the turn and then cut back towards it hard while at the same time popping the clutch and causing the rear wheels to spin. At this point the drifter has a loss of traction and is beginning to slide around the curve. Now comes the hard part. You have to hold the drift until the next turn. To do this you must keep your foot on the accelerator while at the same time adjusting your car with the steering wheel so you don't spin out. It's not as easy as it sounds. Then as the drifter reaches the end of the turn and approaches the next turn which is in the opposite direction he must cut thewheel in that direction and in some cases, if the previous drift was to slow and they start to regain traction, they must pop the clutch again to get the wheels spinning. And that is how you drift a rear wheel drive car.The second technique is used by a few drifters in rear wheel drives, but is the only way you can really drift a front wheel drive. You have to use the side brake. A front wheel drive can not whip it's tail out because the tires are being driven in the front as opposed to the rear. So when approaching a turn you pull the side brake to cause traction loss. And the rest is pretty much the same except that it's much harder to take more than one turn with a front wheel driver

what is drifting?

2007-10-16T08:37:00.000-07:00

Basically, drifting is getting your car sideways down a road. It doesn't sound very hard does it? Sounds a lot like power sliding huh? Well it isn't. It's much more complex. Instead of a drifter causing a drift and then countering to straighten out, he will instead over-counter so his car goes into another drift. That is the reason many drifters do it in the mountains, because there are many sharp turns strung together. So in essence a good drifter has the ability to take five or six opposing turns without having traction at any point in time.

some pic

2007-10-16T02:27:00.000-07:00

this is one of my car , sprint2 chassis with 17x2 motor, fully drift kit

my car

2007-10-16T02:15:00.003-07:00

i have 3 drifting car:

cyclone s drift (hpi brand)

E 10 drift (hpi brand)

sprint 2 drift (hpi brand)

all are including the drift kit of:

tyres ( type A )

spring titanium ( competition type )

shocks ( drift )

just buy some lights for the car (brakes lamp and beam lamp)

Drift car

2007-10-15T23:33:00.001-07:00

Do you ever playing an Rc car?not a touring but drift car.......i just play it for the past 4 months and its great, i mean is how we drive is very cool, you goes side ways every turn of the track and it really take alot of effort and skill to do that.well i think i will make this my permanent hobbies.